PARIS, DECEMBER 17 – Truffle hunting is now part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, the international organisation’s Committee announced today in Paris. “It’s a decision that gives value to a complex practice that is strictly correlated to nature in the Italian context, and an important passage in the recognition of the ‘cavatori’ role as watchmen of the territory, landscape and history”, said the Italian Undersecretary for agriculture, food and forest policy, senator Gian Marco Centinaio.
“Hunt and ‘cavatura’ (the specific term used for the extraction of truffle) in Italy: knowledge and traditional practices”, is the title of the candidacy presented in 2020 and already proposed eight years ago by the truffle hunters’ association. A month ago, international experts – among which Italian Pier Luigi Petrillo – in charge of the evaluation of the proposals made by individual States gave a positive majority response ahead of the long-waited definitive approval.
Even though Alba’s truffle is the most famous (and most expensive) one, the hunt for the precious ingredient involves several territories, from Piedmont to Lombardy and Liguria, Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, from Umbria to Marche, together with Molise, Abruzzo, Latium, Campania, the Murgia region, Calabria until Sicily and the southern part of Sardinia. The practice brings together vast knowledge focused on a deep understanding of the natural environment and ecosystem, and emphasizes the relationship between man and animal, bringing together the abilities of the truffle hunters and those of their dogs. It is a centuries-old tradition, handed down orally from generations through stories, anecdotes, practices and proverbs that represent a wholesome knowledge that brings together rural life, protection of the territory and haute cuisine.
Tools used in this activity are the so-called “vanghetto” or “zappino” (a particular type of spade or hoe) but especially the nose of the dog trained for search, usually a Lagotto. The practice, counting members of the Italian Truffle Association (FNATI), individual associations and the national association Città del Tartufo (ANCT), involves almost 80 thousand free seekers and extractors. (@giorgiodelgallo)
